This story appears in the May 2006 issue of National Geographic magazine. I've always believed the best way to know a river is to paddle it, to feel its undercurrents and speed, to take in the ...
On a pale blue dawn on the Irrawaddy River in Myanmar (Burma), Maung Lay crouched at the front of his canoe, rapping the gunwale with a short stick. He then made a throaty, high-pitched purr, like the ...
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